CONCEPT

When I first participated in the salon that Hortensia organized, it was a matter of course, as I was not acquainted with her. She revolutionized the fashion world by launching the Workshop salon, but she eventually left. She then started a new salon, Showroom Hortensia de Hutten, and the first time I met her was at the second session. I think it happened on the last day of the show. Hortensia appeared unexpectedly, stopped in the front of my booth and took a look at the FERAL FLAIR collection. Then she came closer and started to inspect the clothes. Her calm expression suddenly turned fierce. A serious look came over her face, as if she was a scholar who had been posed a difficult question. At that moment, I recognized that the atmosphere had obviously changed. I felt a bit strange, as if my collection had been completely enveloped in her aura. And then the real surprise happened. She put her hands on the hanging clothes, held them by both sides, and turned them toward her, then inched her face closer to them. Then came a spectacle I'd never seen before. She touched the clothing cautiously, as if she were touching precious jewelry. She tenderly picked up a garment as if she were a curator in a museum handling a delicate work of art. She fixed her stare on it. Her action and posture were so elegant and beautiful, like music. And then she cast her gaze over all the clothes. It seemed like she was trying not to miss a single detail on the garments, or the creator's passion.

She had been scouting for and training new designers for a long time; probably, many young designers didn't have the technique and their creations were not high quality. But they had thoughts and passion, and were trying to play the fashion world game as best they could, creating their masterpieces by themselves as if trying to trump a king. I think that Hortensia had seen many such creations, and as a result she came into contact with clothing in her very own way, trying to discern the thoughts and passion behind their creation; probably having made up her mind to approach those designers with the same level of passion and energy on equal terms. In a salon, where a massive quantity of clothing is being shown, many people don't usually handle clothes roughly, nor very politely. But I had never seen anyone who treated clothing like Hortensia. Of course she remains the only person I have ever seen do that. The only one who approaches clothing sincerely and can change the atmosphere by concentrating on understanding the creator's passion; the one who treats clothes with the same passion as hers. That's who she is. When Yohji Yamamoto was still a newcomer to the Paris collections, he showed a collection of destroyed clothing. He recalled that, "Paris newspapers and magazines criticized my collection severely, with more passion than I had shown, so in the next collection, I destroyed the clothes even more." I think that designers don't grow up all by themselves, but also thanks to the passion that people feel about their creations .

When I first applied to participate in Hortensia's salon, I had to send some samples. She told me that she wanted to buy one of the skirts I had sent in, so she actually bought FF clothes before I took part in her Salon. Thereafter, she bought something from the FF collection every season, during the Paris show. After we stopped showing in Paris, she kept buying our collection, from the photos on our website.

A couple of days ago, I received an e-mail from her saying, "I think that about 80% of my clothes are from you!!!!" Reading this, I nearly wept with joy.

Isshi Kanamaru 3. 2013

オルテンシアの主催する展示会に参加した当初、当たり前ですが彼女とは何の面識もありませんでした。合同展示会の先駆けであるワークショップを革命的に立ち上げ、やがてそこから離れ、自らの名をショールームに冠し再スタートを切った二シーズン目の展示会が彼女との初めての出逢いでした。確かそのショーの最終日だったと思います。フラリと私のブースの前に現れ、趣に立ち止まり、FERAL FLAIRのコレクションを一瞥しました。そして洋服に近づき端から洋服を見始めました。穏やかだった表情は一転し、難解な問題を突きつけられた学者のような強面でシリアスな表情に変わりました。そしてその瞬間、明らかにその場の空気が一転したのです。まるで彼女のオーラの中に自分のコレクションがすっぽり包み込まれてしまったような不思議な感じでした。そして何よりも圧巻だった出来事はそれから起こりました。彼女は横向きに掛かっていた洋服に両手をあてがい洋服の両脇を持ち彼女と洋服を正面に向き合う形で顔を近づけ洋服を見始めたました。そしてその光景は今までに自分が見た事もない光景でした。彼女は洋服をまるで高価な宝飾品に触れるかのように慎重に触れたのでした、または繊細な美術品を扱う美術館の学芸員のように優しく持ち上げ洋服を凝視し始めました。彼女のその仕草や立ち姿はとてもエレガントでまるで音楽のように美しい光景でした。彼女の視線は洋服の隅から隅まであらゆる細部にまで行き渡りその光景はまるで一点たりともディテールを、または情熱を見逃さないと云わんばかりに。

数々の新人デザイナーを発掘し育て上げてきた彼女、若いデザイナーはおそらくまだ技術も完成度もまだまだで、でも思いと情熱だけはあり、でも彼、彼女達はまるで切り札のカードを切るかようにパリの展示会に自分達の自信作を持参し、それぞれの服で世の中に勝負しようとしているのです。きっとその様な服を見続けて来た彼女だからこそ、その洋服に込められた思いや情熱を決して見逃してはいけないと云う決意を持って、デザイナーと同じレベルの情熱とエナジーを持って彼等と対等に向き合う覚悟で洋服に接しているのだと感じました。洋服を拝見しにくる方々の多くは物凄い数の洋服が並ぶ合同展示会で決して乱雑とは云いませんが、あまり丁寧ではない扱い方をするのが当たり前の世界で洋服をあのように扱う人にそれまで自分は遭った事がありませんでした。勿論、自分の今までの人生の中でも彼女ただ一人です。洋服に真摯に向き合い、そのものにのめり込むその姿勢でその周りの空気をも一転させてしまうような存在の人。デザイナーと同じ情熱を持って洋服と接する数少ない存在の人。以前ヨウジさんがパリではまだ駆け出しの頃、洋服を壊すコレクションをやり、それに対して「パリの新聞や雑誌社の方々が自分の情熱以上に自分の物作りを徹底的に叩いて来た、だからこそ次のコレクションでは更に洋服を壊したんです。」と語っていましたが、デザイナーは己の力だけで成長するのではなく、それを受け止める側の情熱でも成長していくのだと思います。

展示会に参加する際、審査があり何点かオルテンシアに洋服を送ったのですが、その中のスカートを購入したいと出展する前からFFの洋服を購入して頂き、それから欠かさず毎シーズン洋服を買って頂きました。パリ展を行わなくなってからも、ウェブにアップされた洋服の画像を見て購入して頂きました。

つい先日、彼女からメールが届き、彼女曰わく「今、私のクローゼットの洋服達の約80%はあなたの洋服よ」と云われました。その文章を読んで、思わず、、涙が出ました。

金丸一志