I have an apology and correction to make about my last text. When I spoke about our new …. However, once it had already gone into production, I realized that when hearing the term “machine washable”, many people imagine that this means a garment that can be worn right after washing, without having been ironed. This is not exactly the case, and this is a hurdle we have to overcome, a high hurdle in fact, as “machine washable” is not exactly correct.

FERAL FLAIR WHITE LABEL garments will be sold at boutiques starting this spring, but please understand that WHITE LABEL is not “machine washable,” sorry. It should be considered as “dry clean only.” Of course, the pieces genuinely aim to be strong garments that are not fussy, but please give us a little more time to make sure that they are truly “machine washable.” Indeed, machine washing can change a garment’s shape because of wrinkles (while it may also be proof of natural fibers.) But we know that fabric processing technology is evolving every day, and we believe that we may see a natural fiber that does not change or wrinkle after machine washing in the near future. Moreover, in the field of synthetic materials, 100% plant-based polyester and nylon are already being developed. We’d like to use them once they start being commercialized.

The world is in the midst of global pandemic and its circumstances have affected every field of artistry, be it positively or negatively. And no matter what field, what environment, or what circumstances, I believe that every artist is being impacted in terms of the direction their process of creation is taking. I often wonder which direction artists will take after this global pandemic.

Let’s take MUSIC for example. All musicians require a self-imposed control, and they are still unable to perform live or at a festival. But I believe that the prospects for the world of MUSIC are bright; bright in terms of entertainment and quality of work. I have a feeling that works of very high quality, ones we can truly call a masterpiece, will be born one after another. Indeed, if someone asked me which musical compositions I prefer, ones created under peaceful circumstances or ones created under serious circumstance, I would likely choose the latter. Personally, I’m very excited to discover new music that has been or will be created under our current circumstances.

On the other hand, there’s FASHION. The future of FASHION is unclear. Unlike MUSIC, which is possible to create in small pieces, FASHION is suffering from far greater economic damage and negativity, simply because of the industry’s very structure and organization. Obviously, if a war, disaster, or famine occur, people won’t be thinking about FASHION; I think that is common sense. Fashion is not so essential to our lives, especially in light of a global pandemic. Twenty or thirty years down the road, hearing people discuss how FASHION had fallen silent during the pandemic won’t really be news.

Personally, I cannot imagine which direction FASHION will take after this period. How will it reflect this chaotic time? Will designers keep reaching for the extreme, even at the risk of looking pathetic? Or will clothing be seen as something just to wear, something pragmatic? And if it evolves in a purely functional way, will people lose interest all together? What is the best way to create beauty from this chaos?

So far, designers have kept creating without questioning the assumption that the world is rich and satisfied by amassing lots of things. Therefore, designers have sought more luxury materials and have insisted on making unusual and extreme creations, with the assumption that people won’t pay attention if they aren’t constantly surprised by extreme fashion. They seek the extreme surprise and sense of security conferred by top quality. Of course, a sincere and just desire to create is part of this approach, but we ask ourself, has anyone wondered if there is too much work, extravagance, or overproduction?

I dare to imagine not that “the world is rich and filled a plenty of things” but, rather, that “the world isn’t rich and it’s filled with few things”. I suppose that the answer for the future of FASHION will be in line with this perspective. If I met people who lost all of their things and hope for the future, and were struggling to build a new life, what clothes would I create for them?

The world before the pandemic was a nice little peaceful place with no special cares or anxiety… I realize that this is of course fantasy, but it is easy to imagine creating in such an environment. On the other hand, a world that is chaotic and unclear about its future is also fascinating to think about in terms of creating within this environment. I dare say it would even be more interesting.

In terms of MUSIC, I’m on the side of listener. As I said, I prefer musical compositions made under serious circumstances. On the other hand in terms of FASHION, I’m on the side of creator. I guess that the idea of creating under serious circumstances simply aligns more with my tastes.

As for the future of FASHION, of course I feel anxiety. At the same time, in spite of feeling somewhat uneasy, in part because of the reigning negativity in the industry; I am also very excited.

Just how much excitement I feel reminds me of the last time I felt so unclear about my future, mixed with anxiety and expectations; and that was when I was twenty years old and just starting my fashion career.

Isshi KANAMARU 2021.3

お詫びと訂正があります。前回、新しいブランド、F.O.RCE(S.) フォースについて、丈夫な服を目指し、洗える服を、と申しましたが、量産に向けいざ動き出してみると、” 洗える服 ”の言葉で大抵の人が想像する ” 水で洗えて洗濯後ノーアイロンで着られる ” 、そのハードルを越えなければウォッシャブルをうたうことは出来ないのではないか、そう自覚しそれは現時点ではハードルがとても高く、残念ながら今回はウォッシャブルの実現には至りませんでした。

実際、この春物から ”白ネーム” を付けた商品が店頭に出回りますが、白ネーム イコール ウォッシャブル商品、という訳ではありません。ごめんなさい。もちろんその方向性どおりの「タフな服を目指したヤワでない服」なのですが、ウォッシャブルをうたうにはもう少し時間を下さい。水洗いをしシワが寄り形状が変わる、それが逆に天然繊維である証明なのかもしれませんが。でも素材の加工技術は日々どんどん進化していますので、近い将来、本当にシワも形状も変わらない天然繊維が出来るのかもしれません。さらに化繊の分野でも進歩は進んでいて100%植物由来のポリエステルやナイロンが開発され始めています。使用可能になれば是非取り入れたいと考えています。



それに対してファッション。ファッションの先行きはそれとは反対に明るいとは云えないと思います。なぜなら単体でも作ることの出来る音楽と違って、ファッションは産業的 構造的に、経済的ダメージや人々のネガティヴな心境を直接受けやすく、一度戦争や災害、飢饉などが起こればファッションどころではないというのが通常と思います。そんな中でこの世界規模のパンデミック、もしかしたら2,30年後とか、歴史的に見て、パンデミックで沈黙した数年間のファッションは取り上げる価値もないと云われるのかもしれません。


これまで、私たちは当たり前に、” 豊かでモノがあり溢れている世界 ” であることを前提に物作りをしてきたのではないのか。だからこそデザイナーはもっともっと高級な素材を追い求め、奇抜で過激な演出や創造をしいられ、もっともっと周りを驚かせなければ注目されないと考える方向に向かっていたのかもしれません。より驚きと最高品質という安心のある方向へ。もちろん創造への誠意と正義はその方向線上にありますが、過剰性や奢り、無駄はなかったのか、を考えさせられます。

” 豊かでモノがあり溢れている世界 ” ではなく、” 豊かさはなくモノがまだあまりなかった世界 ” を今一度想像してみる。何故ならその方向線上に今後のファッションへの答えがあると思うからです。もし自分のそばに ”モノや希望さえも失いかけでもそこから新しい生活に頑張って踏み出していこうとしている人々” がいるとしたら、自分はそんな人たちに向けて一体、どんな服を作るのだろうか?

パンデミック前の世界。特段何も不安や心配事もないそこそこ平和な世界、そこで洋服を作っていくのももちろん素敵なことですが、混沌とした不確かな未来しか見えない世界、そこで創造する物作り、それも魅力的と思えます。逆にやりがいがあるとも云えます。聴く側の音楽に対して深刻な状況下で生み出された楽曲の方が好みと云ったように、作り手側のファッションにおいても、深刻な状況下で生み出す物作りの方がもしかしたら、 実は性に合っているかも、とも思えます。